Mount Cholatse Height: 6440 m.
Location: Nepal, Asia
Overview: Introduction By Uli Steck's While Climbing Cholatse-Twache
On what should have been the third ascent of the Ama Dablam’s (6814m) north east face -1700m vertical metres, Ueli Steck wisely decided to retreat at 5900m as the conditions were dangerous due to heavy snowfalls? Similarly on the Tawoche, as he made an initial attempt on the east face’s rocky ramparts, he realized that only a kamikaze would consider it. He alternatively chose the ice on the left of the wall which was a relatively easy (for him), regular line that took four and half hours to climb overnight on the 24th April. In the morning, following 1500 meters of ice (up and down) varying between 50 and 60 degrees with a few vertical pitches judged as M5, he got back to base camp in time for breakfast …… It was the first time in seven years that someone reached this incredible mountain’s summit.
The 14th April, three o’clock in the morning, Ueli Steck extracts himself from his cosy sleeping bag at base camp and reaches the pile of equipment lying at the foot of the wall. As he gets into the swing of the climb he falls into a state of meditation. A state in which the climb becomes central to his existence: “I’m totally concentrated on the climb and don’t even consider what might follow.” Every day life, his partner waiting at base camp are all on another planet. As Ueli admits "as soon as I’m on the wall I become a total egoist. But that’s also why I can enjoy myself with my girlfriend following the climb, impossible if I haven’t played out my wilder side hooked on action.” It’s impossible to describe the fear one has for a loved one who’s climbing solo. It’s perfectly understandable that the girlfriend is as exhausted afterwards – at least psychologically - as the climber himself.
A magic word: psyche
The psyche. The magic word for these achievements: climbing solo at this level would be impossible without the ability to concentrate one’s whole body and mind on the climb and the next step. “I’ve always had good insight”, says Ueli. So he’s never needed to study meditation techniques …. It just comes naturally. “If you can concentrate totally on something then it remains completely focussed. I knew, based on personal experience, that I could climb Cholatse. The trick is to use this knowledge.......More on Request.
TREKKING ITINERARY
Day 01 - Welcome to Kathmandu 1350m: Arrive in Kathmandu airport. You'll be met at the airport by our representative and transfer to hotel.
Day 02 - Kathmandu 1350m: The day to explore the sights of Kathmandu and the valley with a tour guide. You will be visiting temples, stupas, secret site, architecture and cultural things.
Day 03: Prepared Expedition & briefing
Day 04: flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding Lodge or Camping
Day 05: Phakding - Namche 3450m. Lodge/Camping
Day 06: Namche acclimatize/ day hiking Lodge/Camping
Day 07: Namche - Phortse Tenga – Lodge/Camping
Day 08: Phortse Tenga - Macharmo – Lodge/Camping
Day 09: Machermo - Gokyo – Lodge/Camping
Day 10: Gokyo day hiking – Lodge/Camping
Day 11: Gokyo - Cho La Phedi – Lodge/Camping
Day 12: Cho La Phedi - Chola La pass - Jungla (Dzongla) Lodge/Camping
Day 13: Dzongla – Cholache Base camp - Camping
Day 14 –23: climbing period for Cholache
Day 24: BC – Pangboche – Lodge/ Camping
Day 25: Pangboche – Namche – Lodge/Camping
Day 26: Namche – Lukla – Lodge/Camping
Day 27 - fly to Kathmandu: We fly by plane to Kathmandu in the morning. Occasionally flights are delayed by bad weather however we are supposed to be in Kathmandu by 12 noon.
Day 28 - Kathmandu: A free day for washing, shopping and a last look around Kathmandu.
Day 29 - Farewel: We take you to the airport for your flight home. If you wish to stay longer we can offer plenty of suggestions as to what to do.
Cost included:
All land and air transfer as per itinerary.
Arrival and departure transfers.
Accommodation with attached bathroom in Kathmandu.
While on the trek 3 meals, tea, coffee and boiled water provided.
Fully escorted trek with English speaking guide and necessary porters. And also in need we provide other language speaking guide for trek.
Entry permit and National Park Fees.
Wages, equipment, insurance and other facilities to trekking staffs.
Cost not included:
Airport Departure taxes/Excess baggage charges.
Bottled beverages, mineral water, dessert, tips, items of personal nature, delay due to weather, equipment failure or situation beyond our control.
Travel / medical Insurance (this is a mandatory condition of booking).
Medical evacuation in case of emergency.
Extra cost (dividable)
(a) USD 200 for the climbing guide fee (b) Peak Permit: For 1-4 members: USD 350.00
For 5-8 members: USD 350.00 + USD 40.00 per person
For 9-12 members: USD 510.00 + USD 25.00 per person
Note : Maximum number of members in one team is 12.
On what should have been the third ascent of the Ama Dablam’s (6814m) north east face -1700m vertical metres, Ueli Steck wisely decided to retreat at 5900m as the conditions were dangerous due to heavy snowfalls? Similarly on the Tawoche, as he made an initial attempt on the east face’s rocky ramparts, he realized that only a kamikaze would consider it. He alternatively chose the ice on the left of the wall which was a relatively easy (for him), regular line that took four and half hours to climb overnight on the 24th April. In the morning, following 1500 meters of ice (up and down) varying between 50 and 60 degrees with a few vertical pitches judged as M5, he got back to base camp in time for breakfast …… It was the first time in seven years that someone reached this incredible mountain’s summit.